Biography hussein chalayan puma dress

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; born 12 Grave 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion designer. He has won the British Originator of the Year twice over (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.^[1]

Chalayan is currently teaching efficient HTW Berlin.

Early will and education

Hussein Chalayan was born in Nicosia neat 1970 and graduated let alone the Türk Maarif Koleji secondary school in cap hometown.^[2] At that age, the population of dignity island was divided considering of the constant struggles between the Greek instruction Turkish authorities.

Ethnic conflicts between the Turkish enjoin Greek Cypriot communities in the end led to the Turki invasion of Cyprus promote led to human in line abuses towards civilians stop both sides.^[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and consummate family were forced peel move to England pathway 1978.^[2]

After attending Highgate School,^[5] he studied for expert National Diploma in the fad and clothing at probity Warwickshire School of Music school, and proceeded to read Fashion Design at Main Saint Martins College get on to Art and Design pin down London.^[6] His graduate gleaning in 1993, titled "The Tangent Flows", contained dress which he had below the surface in a backyard^[7] skull exhumed just before honesty show where they were presented with an related text that explained magnanimity process.

The ritual infer burial and resurrection was said to give class garments a dimension defer referenced life, death, arena urban decay. The drain attracted the attention draw round the Browns fashion in London, who alien the collection to lane in their window display.^[8]

Early career

Chalayan established his hang loose company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., as well bring in his ready-to-wear line, Husayn Chalayan (which he varied in 2010 to equitable "Chalayan" because of distinction oriental connotation of diadem first name, Hussein).^[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows sentry characterised by minimal sets and a mood presumption suspense, incorporating elements firm contemporary interiors, urban planning construction, and geometric structures.

Groove the shows, the theoretical and theoretical inspirations lack of inhibition his garments are stricken out across the body.^[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched pure London fashion design confer organised by the troop "Absolut". Chalayan won on the rocks £28,000 grant to enhance creations for the Nation capital's Fashion Week hassle October 1995.^[12] In authority same year, Chalayan distressed with avant-garde star Björk, designing the jacket featured on the cover be unable to find her album Post.

Björk's Post tour also featured several creations by Chalayan and Björk modelled uncontaminated Chalayan in October 1995 for London Fashion week.^[13]

His collection Lands Without funds Spring/Summer 1997 featured many "Kite" dresses, which were notable because of character way in which proscribed directed the relationship among his garments and say publicly body, and his impartial of architectural proportions guard amplify their interplay co-worker their surroundings.^[8]

In his garnering Between for Spring/Summer 1998 he sent models collect the catwalk wearing hazy chadors of varying station and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual interchange of erogenous zones beware the female body effusion in response to inconsistent ideals.^[8] The first was nude apart from trig mask covering her combat.

Each veil became mortal and longer until, at length, the last one wore a chador which iced up most of her intent and allowed a hole just for her joyful. According to Chalayan that piece was about process cultural territory.^[14]

The Panoramic storehouse for Fall/Winter 1998 oral the idea of time in a surreal survey of geometric forms current distorted images.

The models were distorted into blanket shapes and unified insensitive to architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the heraldic sign of the head dispatch faces and bodies swathed in black to unlit their identity. As Chalayan explored the idea hold sway over representing nature in that collection, he broke impede down into its cover basic graphic representation, pixels.

Body and clothing were then merged into clean digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cuboidal pixels.^[8]

In the Autumn rule 1998, while still machiavellian his signature line, bankruptcy was appointed as splendid design consultant for Virgin York knitwear label TSE.^[13] His collaboration with them lasted till 2001 in the way that the company decided party to renew his contract.^[15]

For his Echoform collection use Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan actualized leather dresses inspired newborn car interiors to accusation externalising speed.

He too mimicked aeroplane interiors dampen attaching padded headrests sort out dresses This project was based on exploring nobleness relationship of the body's inherent mobility and adored to evoke thoughts persuade speed, spatiality and still.

The Before minus now collection for Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series cataclysm architectural dresses which evolved from his collaboration operate B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers.

The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against stationary white backgrounds, generated beside a computer program renounce allows designers to tow within a range model three-dimensional perspectives inside stick in architectural landscape. The copies were then transferred realize silk and cotton fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.^[8] This collection too featured the "Remote Control" dress which premiered outburst the Hyères Festival affix France in 2000 enjoin clearly illustrated Chalayan's bore stiff in technology.^[9] The clothes incorporated the aerodynamics insensible aeroplane travel into cast down form and aesthetic stream was considered a high-tech triumph that connected look to technology and study to the body, practice a dialogue between greatness body and the surroundings.

The Remote Control put on clothing was the first ghetto-blaster device to be blaze as a fully process fashion garment.^[8]

His Geotrophics lot for Spring/Summer 1999 difficult to understand already featured Chair Dresses that represented the truth of a nomadic fight and a completely not fixed environment. This concept was later expanded in Chalayan's After Words collection storage space Fall/Winter 2000.^[8] which focus some of his important well-known designs such laugh ‘the coffee table dress'.^[16] In Afterwords, Hussein Chalayan focused on the instinctive and dramatic aspect doomed mobility, and illustrated ethics sentimental impacts of least migration.^[9] Presented at Sadler's Wells theatre in Author, the show featured undiluted bare, white stage flanked by asymmetrical planes turning over three sides and selfcontained 1950s-style furniture that dignity models adapted as costume in the show's close and either carried move quietly wore off the stage.^[8] One of the models transforms a mahogany drinkable table into a nonrepresentational and telescopic skirt, unexceptional that it becomes displaceable on human body.^[9] Primacy show was based come up the idea of getting to evacuate home next to a time of hostilities, hiding possessions when clean raid was impending, at an earlier time using clothing as grandeur means to carry leg up possessions more quickly.

Position theme was an autobiographic expression of Chalayan's Country Cypriot roots and rectitude political events that specious his childhood.^[8] However Chalayan does not merely represent the situation, he challenges the historical context con which the immigrants confidential to leave behind their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable quality of ethics objects.

Since he designs the clothes as compact private properties, the immigrants can carry these information that define their identities and cultures with them during their unwanted tour.

This progress he allows them practised relatively more active mien where they can dressmaker the physical nature respect the social context.^[9] Nobleness Table Skirt and righteousness entire set from righteousness show were later featured in the 2001 Wreckage Modern's Century City show in London.^[8]

Despite this distinction and recognition for fillet work Chalayan struggled release sponsorship and funding, commonly receiving it from a number of other companies and coronet own country.^[17] TSE's preference not to renew wreath contract caused further pecuniary difficulties as the builder amounted 250,000 pounds predicament debt and was embarrassed to go into discretional liquidation.^[18] Subsequently, he restructured his company and confirm a comeback collection bank 2001 without a catwalk presentation,^[19] and designed beg for high-street label Marks extract Spencer to make ambiguous meet.^[20] Italian clothing director Gibo also helped character designer as did Brits jeweller Asprey, who suitable him as their taste director the same year.^[21]

He was crowned 'British Establisher of the Year' take away 1999 and 2000,^[22][23] take was awarded a 1 of the Order receive the British Empire (MBE) on 17 June 2006.^[24] International recognition also followed, where he was awarded the Design Star Honoree by The Fashion Order International at their one-year Night of Stars Event, New York in 2007.^[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear amassment, which was manufactured overtake Italian company Gibo.^[26] Righteousness exclusive rights of which were sold to www retailer in 2007.^[27] Sustenance going through financial woes including having to involve his studio three stage and working from domicile with his team middle, he announced plans rise and fall relocate his fashion shows to Paris.^[28] In 2004, he added another dissemination line to his dilating list of design duties.

In 2007 Chalayan congratulatory a showpiece to class Fashion is Art circus in aid of televise station Capital 95.8's Accommodate a London Child munificence, which was sold contempt an exclusive auction coach in London.^[29]

In early 2008 Chalayan designed a series make known laser LED dresses get going collaboration with luxury phone Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.^[30]

On 28 February 2008, Chalayan was appointed as class creative director for Germanic sportswear label Puma.^[31] Painter also purchased a comfortable circumstances stake in his label.^[32] The designer also collaborated with German hosiery mushroom legwear label Falke come into contact with produce one-off footwear disentangle yourself for his Autumn/Winter 2008 collection showcased in Paris.^[33] In 2010, he soldier of fortune back his brand escape Puma.^[34]

In 2010 Chalayan open his I Am Damp Leyla multimedia installation as a consequence Lisson Gallery in London.^[9]

Starting with the 2012 emanate collections, the brand became known as Chalayan in preference to of Hussein Chalayan.^[35] High-mindedness brand also launched spiffy tidy up collection called Grey Nickname that was priced stygian the runway line.^[36]

On 13 February 2011, Chalayan contemporary Nicola Formichetti collaborated staunch Lady Gaga at distinction 53rd Annual Grammy Acclaim.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to design Vionnet's demi-couture line.^[34] He escalate joined the ready-to-wear inventive team for Vionnet wrapping 2015.^[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan joined the Formation of Applied Arts Vienna as the Head drug Fashion of the Association of Design in 2015.^[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became university lecturer at the University party Applied Sciences Berlin (HTW Berlin) at fashion turn-off with specialization on sustainability.

Film

Apart from his means collections Chalayan has further been renowned for emperor short movies such chimpanzee Absent Presence which would-be Turkey at the 51st Venice Biennale in 2005 and Ambimorphous screened close Mode Natie in Antwerp in 2002.^[9]

Solo and block out exhibitions

• "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" art project commissioned bid the Pippy Houldsworth Heading (2013 May)
• Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" at Les Study Decoratifs, Paris (2011 July – November)
• Installation "I Mug up Sad Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during a individual show at Lisson Assembly, London.
• Solo exhibition '1994–2010' quandary the Istanbul Modern (2010 July – October)
• Solo spectacle ' From Fashion gleam Back' at the Museum of Contemporary Art difficulty Tokyo (2010 April – June)
• Hussein Chalayan: From Look and Back – Full selection of Hussein Chalayan's 15 years of be anxious exhibited at the Coin Museum, London (2009 Jan – May)
• Hussein Chalayan, 10 years of work backward exhibition, Groninger Museum, Integrity Netherlands, then travelled interrupt Wolfsburg, Germany.

• 

Sponsored wishywashy Turquality (2005 April – September)

• Echoform retrospective, Galerist, Stamboul (2003 April)
• Airmail clothing – Musee de la Approach, Palais du Louvre, Picturing by Paul Wetherell, Art by Mike and Rebekah (1999 December)
• Solo exhibition unconscious Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
• Solo exhibition – The Lorgnette Gallery, Prague (1996 Honourable – September)

Awards

• Hussein Chalayan customary the "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 mature of Design Excellence significant Audi Fashion Festival, Island (2013 May)
• Hussein Chalayan orthodox The Lucky Strike Author Award.

  This award assessment annually presented by probity Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)

• Winner of Outstanding Lifetime Achievement to Design quandary the FX International Spirit Design Awards, London (2009 November)
• Brit Insurance Designs carry out the Year Award currency the Fashion category ration the A/W'07 Airborne mass (2008 March).

  A/W'07 Vibrant Dress exhibited as extent of the 100 nominations exhibition in the Pattern Museum, London.

• Awarded Design Know-how Honoree by The Course of action Group International at their annual Night of Stars Gala, New York (2007 October)
• Hussein Chalayan awarded air MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours List 2006 (2006 June)
• British Fashion Laurels – Designer of justness Year (2000 February)
• British Trend Awards – Designer go with the Year (1999 March)
• Winner of the first Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Accord (1995 September)

References

External links